Healthy skin is characterized by a high density of collagen resulting from a well-balanced equilibrium between its synthesis and degradation. We developed a new peptide protecting collagen from degradation starting from the structure of an enzyme involved in collagen degradation. The resulting peptide modulator AAT11-RI is a partial retro-inverso peptide with potent collagen modulator activity and enhanced enzymatic stability. Its commercial scale production will be at Bachem. We will outline the key elements of the development of AAT11-RI and Bachem’s know-how for more sustainable production at the cutting edge of green chemistry applied to the synthesis of cosmetic peptides.

Paolo Rovero, full professor of medicinal chemistry at the Medical School of the University of Florence and Editor-in-chief of the Journal of Peptide Science, published by the European Peptide Society, is active in the field of the design, synthesis, and biological characterization of peptides of pharmaceutical, cosmeceutical, and biotechnological interest since 1985.

In 2003 he founded the first academic spin-off company of the University of Florence, EspiKem Srl, currently engaged in the development of peptide active ingredients of cosmeceutical interest.

He is co-author of over 250 scientific publications in international journals and 25 patents of pharmaceutical relevance.